This year, I decided I wanted to learn how to make pants. I started with the Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated – which are great – but I wanted something a little more trouser-like for work. That’s when I found the Chandler Trousers by Untitled Thoughts! They are the perfect combination of structured pleats in the front and elastic in the back. They look professional – but have all the comfort of “secret pajamas.”
Since I wasn’t sure how these pants would fit, I decided to make a muslin. I ended up making THREE. I kept having issues with the back, the crotch was doing weird things, and my booty is too big for how this pattern is drafted. None of these things are problems with the pattern or my body; just ways that my unique measurements differ from universal pattern blocks. This was the first time I did fit adjustments to a pattern (outside of grading between sizes) and let me tell you – there is nothing more empowering than learning about your body and how to make clothes fit!
Back of muslin 1 – still needs a low seat adjustment 
Back of muslin 2 – with low seat adjustment
My waist is 39″ and my hips are 46″ so I made the size J1. Here are the adjustments I ended up making:
- Flat pubis
- Low seat
- Add 1″ to the back rise
I made the first pair out of Ruby Star’s Chore Coat in Earth. The chore coat is a little heavy for this pattern, so I ended up using muslin for the pocket linings, front facing, and back facing to cut down on bulk. I love these pants, but the legs are a little baggier than I would like. Eventually, I plan to slim the legs out, but not today 🙂
I really wanted a pair of these in a twill suiting for that traditional office look – but I also didn’t want a fabric I had to dry clean. I have a beautiful dark green wool in my fabric stash that I had been planning to use, but I don’t have enough tops to match with it. I’m trying to be more intentional about adding to my wardrobe, so I’m trying to make things I know I will wear regularly. I hunted the internet until I found a linen that had a similar look to suiting and ended up with a Robert Kaufman yarn dyed Essex in black. Because it is white linen woven with black linen, it has a great textured look.
I ended up taking about half an inch from the inseam starting and ending at my knees. Since I have thin thighs, it helped reduce some of the extra room I had in that area. I still see some bagginess in the thighs, so I may take some width away starting below the pockets to the knees in the outer seam, as well.
I love these pants because they are so versatile – I could wear these to the office, to a job interview, or to the beach. They’re also a quick sew – now that I’ve made them so many times, I can crank them out in a day. I think I might make another pair in a white/cream linen… That muslin looks AMAZING. Too bad you can see my undies :/
