Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet

I haven’t been feeling a lot of motivation to work on my spinning project, so we’re taking a break to look at the Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet.

My friend Kate keeps talking about how much she loves her overalls – so I was inspired to make my own! I spent months looking for the overall pattern. Luckily (or maybe annoyingly), overalls are very on-trend right now so there are so many to choose from! At first, I searched for something resembling the Gap’s overalls. I loved how traditional they are and was planning to make them out of denim. At first, the Jenny by Closet Core Patterns, then the Merchant and Mills Harlene Overalls were at the top of my list. But the more I looked, the more I was drawn to the looser, less traditional Yanta Overalls.

I’m not sure why I love this pattern so much – it might be the roundness at the hip, the curve from the bib to the waist… It feels wearable and funky and just… delightful!

I decided to make a muslin out of an old sheet. (Sidenote: these were some of my favorite sheets when I had a full-size bed. I love giving them new life as wearable muslins – they are also now a Woolfork Dress by Jacqueline Cieslak). I kept putting the muslin on before bed because I just loved it so much! Turns out I needed to make this a wearable garment!

The next weekend, I cut out the rest of the pieces, took the muslin apart, and started construction. It’s a very straightforward pattern with detailed instructions. The sheets were a little difficult to work with, but I made them work.

Alternations:

I graded from a 16 at the waist, to an 18 at the hips, back to 16 for the legs.
The 16 waist was too tight to get over my hips, so I tried letting out the seams, but I didn’t like the looser look. Instead, I decided to add a button to the waist on both sides.

The tushy is still a little tight, so I have three to three things to try next time: 1. change the crotch curve to a size 18; 2. grade to a size 20 in the hips; 3. increase the back rise and/or low seat adjustment.

Adding a waist button to the Yantas

I didn’t take process photos of this, but I wish I had! Oh well. Here’s how I added a button to each side of the waist – in very basic steps.

Add extra interfacing where you will be installing the buttonhole – at the front side waist.
Change the construction order – you’ll be installing the front and back facing before you sew the inseam or sides. Basically, you’ll construct the full front and back pieces before you put the garment together.
Install a small button fly (it’s more of a button tab!) on the back waist – make a small 1.5″ ish square that is interfaced and edgestitched between the back and back facing.
When you sew the side seams, sew as close to the button fly as you can.
As part of the finishing touches, edgestitch the sides to just below where the side seam starts, then sew a bar tack between the edgestitching. This will reinforce the opening.
Sew a buttonhole on the front waist and install a button on the button fly/tab thing.